ART IN THEIR HEART
(published in the Speaking Tree, Times of India,
Oct’2015)
A trip to a
country rich in cultural experiences is postponed long by a family with small
kids. So when my little ones became old enough to know the difference between
Kathakali and Flamenco, and recognize a painting by Van Gogh or Picasso, I knew
it was time to go to Italy. As a classical dancer from a land so rich in
culture, I wanted to examine just why this powerful religious space was also
reckoned as the cultural capital of the world.
Yet I knew that every
country is so vast as a cultural experience, one cannot do justice to it in a
few weeks. So we zoomed into the Amalfi coast. The exquisite coastal beauty of
the Amalfi coast is much talked about in all travel magazines. As we drove into
the coastal stretch on our taxi ride from Naples, I confess of being a bit
wary. Was this to be like any sunny, beach experience in Europe? How was it any
different from an Antalya or Malaga? The week that followed silenced my inner
critic and replaced it with great admiration for a cultural community so proud
of its heritage. The Amalfi coast had not just natural beauty but also people
so warm and engaging, they knew the art of living, of how to take a pause. They
lived a conscious life, responsible to their natural environment and joyously
celebrating their artistic heritage in their daily lives.
The Amalfi
coastline is full of green hills, dotted with small villages or towns that
present their own vantage point of the landscape. So if Positano and Praiano
are villages which give you gorgeous,
sunset sea views, Maori and Minori are villages right on the beach, close to
the sea with lovely promenades and cobbled-street towns.
As a contrast,
there are villages high on the hills, like Ravello and Tramonti, world famous
for their own specialties. Ravello is called the city of music, where
international music concerts happen in historic Roman villas. We had the
fortune of attending a ‘String Quartet’, where on their violins, viola and cello
the artistes treated us to pieces composed by the 19th c. classical
musician Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy. Such is their fierce musical pride that
the entire concert note only mentioned the details of Bartholdi’s life and
compositions. The audience only knew the names of the magician-like musicians,
who created waves upon waves of musical delight for our ears.
Ravello has such
concerts in historic settings all through summer and even hosts a magical
sunrise concert in an open-air stage that is the most breathtaking, ocean-overlooking,
mountain- perched experience of music possible. Nature becomes the perfect
setting for a spectacular moment created by artistes who have dedicated their
whole life to an instrument.
Tramonti in the
hills, is the name for a village famous for its wines. ‘Tramonti’ in Italian is
the area between the mountains, and this village produces the most remarkable
full-bodied wine in Italy. Apart from the numerous grape orchards seen all over
Amalfi mountains, is the ubiquitous presence of the lemon tree. In every Amalfi
town and village, and even inside hotels there are lemon groves in full
blossom. Surrounded by so many lemons, hanging over our heads in a balcony
overlooking the sea, I found myself humming ‘the Lemon Tree’ song by the group
Crowded House! These big, luminous yellow lemons have pervaded the Amalfi
landscape and culture such that there is beautiful representation of them everywhere
: in endless ceramics, lemon ice-cream and the famous Amalfi limoncello!
But more than
these tactile, visual moments was a hidden gem-like quality about the Amalfi
coast : how everyone celebrated the arts and rejoiced in every form of it!
While walking to the beach, we came upon an old tower by the sea, and went up
to find the artist Paolo Sandulli working in it as his studio. From there he
painted and sculpted the sea life and the beautiful coved beach of Marina di
Praia. We walked back to the hotel with a painting of the beach, and my son was
thrilled that the artiste wrote a special note for him in his catalogue. The
artiste in the tower, will always be a special memory for us, a coming together
of history and art!
In Italy as well
as the Amalfi coast there are many such rich moments: where the taxi drivers
describe their coastal villages like a history professor, rich with anecdotes
and stories; where every town has a space where they organize musical concerts
for all, to the extent that they even have a special city of music! Children
are not charged in many historic sites like Pompeii, to encourage them to
explore their history through architecture, and even the airport in Rome is
named after their cultural icon Leonardo di Vinci and not any recent political
figure.
For what is art, but a sensitivity towards our environment, a higher
level of consciousness, where nature appears more alive than ever, and pervades
every cell of our being. In such moments iconic musicians like Richard Wagner
created symphonies in Ravello and geniuses like Leonardo di Vinci found ideas
about the universe appearing on to his sketchbook. Artistes create from their
world of ideas in not just beautiful surroundings, but a rich social climate
where the community takes pride in their ideas as their own. They know very
well that artistes and scientists are forever engaging with the mysteries of
the universe. Italy, especially the Amalfi coast, is a space which is inspired
in this respect, forever celebrating their identity, as one with all the arts
and artistes that reside in it.